Kadhwa vs. Phekwa: Unraveling the Artistry Behind Banarasi Weaves ✨

Key Takeaway: In Banarasi sarees, two brocade—Kadhwa’s finely carved motifs and Phekwa’s flowing weft floats—tell different parts of the same story. Both honor Varanasi’s silk heritage and offer unique textures, moods, and styling possibilities.

Weaving Roots in Varanasi

Imagine Varanasi’s narrow lanes alive with shuttles clicking day and night, each thread carrying centuries of craft. That’s where Kadhwa and Phekwa were born: two methods that transform pure silk into six yards of living art. One creates bold, raised designs; the other weaves soft, shimmering patterns across the whole width. Which one speaks to you?

Kadhwa: Carved Elegance

“Kadha-hua” literally means “engraved.” Here’s what makes it special:

• Each motif is woven separately—think of small sculptures stitched into the silk.

• The back stays clean, with no loose threads to trim.

• Two weavers usually team up, spending days—even weeks—on a single saree.

• The result? Dramatic, three-dimensional patterns that pop under every light.

Slip into Kadhwa when you want your saree to stand out like a work of art.

Phekwa: Flowing Grace

“Phekhna” means “to throw,” and that’s exactly what the weaver does—throws a supplementary weft thread from edge to edge. Highlights include:

• A single weaver guides a shuttle across the loom, creating an unbroken design.

• Long floats on the back add hidden sparkle or get clipped for cutwork.

• It takes a fraction of the time—just a few dozen hours—to finish.

• The finish is soft and subtly textured, perfect for everyday elegance.

Choose Phekwa for lightweight drapes that move like liquid silk.

Feature	Kadhwa	Phekwa
Brocade Style	Motifs carved one by one	Continuous design across full width
Weavers	Two artisans collaborating	Solo weaver at the loom
Backside Finish	Smooth, no floats	Floats present (can be clipped)
Time to Weave	200–500 hours per saree	25–65 hours per saree
Time to Weave	Bold, embossed relief	Delicate sheen and gentle texture
Best For	Bridal, festive, statement pieces	Day-to-evening, travel-friendly drapes

Styling Tips & Real Moments

Ever draped a Kadhwa pallu over a solid georgette? The contrast is jaw-dropping. And a Phekwa jaal peeking from under a simple blouse? Total magic—like a soft whisper of color.

A master weaver once labored under a single lamp for weeks to carve out a peacock motif in Kadhwa. On the same street, a young artisan spun rainbow Resham wefts in a Phekwa weave, turning his tiny loom into an aurora of threads. These stories live in every fold you make.

Caring for Your Banarasi

• Kadhwa: Store flat or gently rolled. Its sturdy motifs handle generations.

• Phekwa: Keep it flat and snag-free. A light trim of loose floats keeps it neat.

A little airing and a swipe of muslin paper now and then, and your saree remains an heirloom.

Blending Old & New

Today’s designers mix both techniques: embossed Kadhwa motifs floating atop satin-smooth Phekwa bases. The result is a multi-layered masterpiece—a modern twist on a classic craft.

Final Thoughts

Do you gravitate to Kadhwa’s bold relief or Phekwa’s soft shimmer? Either way, you’re draping centuries of Varanasi’s soul. Next time you slip into a Banarasi pure silk saree, pause and feel it: the carved stories or the floating wefts beneath your fingertips.

Ready to choose your Banarasi voice? Share which weave you love most and let Dharohar spin your next silk story! 💖